I'm now in Milan. Not so impressed with this city. It's huge and bustling and busy - such a change from Vernazza. It's really a culture shock to be here...It really doesn't help that I'm totally exhausted and stressed that I'll somehow miss my flight tomorrow...
I made it to the Duomo (including the Cathedral roof - unbelievably lacy and frilly for something made of marble), but not to the Duomo museum (closed for renovation) or the La Scala Opera House museum. Oh well, next time! On the upside, I did get to browse through H&M...
I'm looking forward to being home, but not to the trip tomorrow. I'm so tired right now I can't think and the idea of sitting on a plane for 16 hours is really unappealing. Gotta try to find a place to eat something and crash out in my hotel.
Can't wait to see everybody and show off my pictures. Ciao!
Wednesday, May 21, 2008
Tuesday, May 20, 2008
Branching out from gnocchi and pesto...
My Vernazza boyfriend, Antonio, knows everybody in this tiny town (don't get excited, Antonio is in his 50s and just, no). He speaks english very well and obviously likes hanging out with tourists. Especially the cute ones.
Anyhow, Antonio's friend Piva owns a little restaurant here in Vernazza - it's actually literally outside my window. I ran into Antonio and Piva this afternoon, and Piva invited me to his restaurant for dinner. Of course, I said yes.
I've been wanting to try noci. It's kind of like pesto - only it's made with walnuts instead of basil. Even though it's not on the menu, Piva made it for me (on gnocchi, naturally!). Delicious! It's very dolce (sweet) and very filling. All in all, a very nice change from pesto - although I still love pesto. I don't think I'll ever get sick of pesto!
I've heard about Piva from people here in town. Apparently, he's quite the troubadour. I thought people here just tolerated his vocal obsession, but no. He's got CDs. No kidding. He only sings after hours, so I'm definitely going back later tonight!
I finally tried the local sweet dessert wine called sciacchetra. I'm not entirely clear on this, but the locals say it's made from raisins. It takes an awful lot of raisins to make just a little bit of this wine (very similar to port, only a white wine port...). It's kind of expensive, but very worth it! It's also very high in alcohol (well, compared to regular wine anyways). I had a bit of trouble navigating the stairs after dinner...
Did I mention that to get anywhere in Vernazza you have to climb a million stairs? And not just any old stairs, straight up, steep, and rather dangerous stairs. Italians apparently have an aversion to handrails...
Anyhow, some of the locals are throwing down tonight on the breakwater. One of them is getting married tomorrow, so tonight is the pre-party. I've been invited to hang out, so obviously, I'm so there! I think I'll try some grappa. I have no idea what grappa is, but all the youngins are drinking it, so salut! Then, it's back to Piva's for some more wine and some singing. Ahhh...this is the life.
I can't believe I'm off to Milan tomorrow. Kind of depressing. When I get home, I'm throwing a picture party and making pesto with gnocchi. And noci with gnocchi or ravioli! So yummy!
Ciao!
Anyhow, Antonio's friend Piva owns a little restaurant here in Vernazza - it's actually literally outside my window. I ran into Antonio and Piva this afternoon, and Piva invited me to his restaurant for dinner. Of course, I said yes.
I've been wanting to try noci. It's kind of like pesto - only it's made with walnuts instead of basil. Even though it's not on the menu, Piva made it for me (on gnocchi, naturally!). Delicious! It's very dolce (sweet) and very filling. All in all, a very nice change from pesto - although I still love pesto. I don't think I'll ever get sick of pesto!
I've heard about Piva from people here in town. Apparently, he's quite the troubadour. I thought people here just tolerated his vocal obsession, but no. He's got CDs. No kidding. He only sings after hours, so I'm definitely going back later tonight!
I finally tried the local sweet dessert wine called sciacchetra. I'm not entirely clear on this, but the locals say it's made from raisins. It takes an awful lot of raisins to make just a little bit of this wine (very similar to port, only a white wine port...). It's kind of expensive, but very worth it! It's also very high in alcohol (well, compared to regular wine anyways). I had a bit of trouble navigating the stairs after dinner...
Did I mention that to get anywhere in Vernazza you have to climb a million stairs? And not just any old stairs, straight up, steep, and rather dangerous stairs. Italians apparently have an aversion to handrails...
Anyhow, some of the locals are throwing down tonight on the breakwater. One of them is getting married tomorrow, so tonight is the pre-party. I've been invited to hang out, so obviously, I'm so there! I think I'll try some grappa. I have no idea what grappa is, but all the youngins are drinking it, so salut! Then, it's back to Piva's for some more wine and some singing. Ahhh...this is the life.
I can't believe I'm off to Milan tomorrow. Kind of depressing. When I get home, I'm throwing a picture party and making pesto with gnocchi. And noci with gnocchi or ravioli! So yummy!
Ciao!
So sad to leave Vernazza...
It's my last day and night in Vernazza. I'm really sad about this, but looking forward to one day in Milan before the loooonnnnnngggg flight home on Thursday. I'll be chasing the sun on the whole trip home, so I definitely won't be sleeping. Oh well - I can sleep when I get to my own bed!
It's raining here today. Again. The tourist crush is a lot less when it rains, but I really wanted to spend some time floating in the sea. The sky may clear up later today - we'll see...
Dinner last night was fantastic. The Seattle ladies I ate with are really cool. I can't wait to hook up with them when we all get home! I didn't branch out food-wise. More gnocci and pesto - don't fix what ain't broken, I guess!
Anyhow, I better go. The early trains are busily dropping off tourists who are eager to e-mail their friends and family back home. Milan tomorrow afternoon, then Seattle!
It's raining here today. Again. The tourist crush is a lot less when it rains, but I really wanted to spend some time floating in the sea. The sky may clear up later today - we'll see...
Dinner last night was fantastic. The Seattle ladies I ate with are really cool. I can't wait to hook up with them when we all get home! I didn't branch out food-wise. More gnocci and pesto - don't fix what ain't broken, I guess!
Anyhow, I better go. The early trains are busily dropping off tourists who are eager to e-mail their friends and family back home. Milan tomorrow afternoon, then Seattle!
Monday, May 19, 2008
Cinque Terre
After leaving Venice, I headed across Italy to the west coast - the fabled Cinque Terre. My (and most of the other tourists in Italy) homeboy Rick Steves recommended Vernazza as a great place to crash. He wasn't kidding! Vernazza is a place that I could just up and move to. The people - including the tourists! - are laid back, relaxed, and really appreciate the simple life. The little town is one of the most beautiful spots in the world. I totally made the right decision to save this gem for last.
It was a bit of a scary thing getting here. I was totally off the grid - no reservations and not a whole lot of options, but it all worked out okay. I stayed in an amazing little apartment my first night here (rather than let it sit empty, the family took my 50 euros for the night). Now, I'm in a little camera - room for let. I have a double bed, an unusual but cool view, and my bathroom is like no other! There's no shower stall. I have to pull the shower curtain across the sink, turn on the shower, and scrub over the toilet...You'll have to see the pictures - it's hard to describe. The door to the bathroom is sealed up like a submarine! I love it! The owners are Antonio (a honest-to-god GIANT) and Ingrid (I think she's Swiss). They're fantastic. They've really gone out of their way to make their little camera homey and sweet.
I visited the other four villages today. Neh. I think Vernazza has spoiled me for life!
I've hiked the 7-mile trail that connects the 5 villages. Two of the sections are pretty tame - fairly flat and easy. The other two sections are SCARY! Huge elevation gains and losses, and the trails don't necessarily have guardrails. In too many places to name, there was sheer rock cliff on one side of the 6-inch dirt trail and a 500+ foot cliff straight to the jagged rocks below. One false move, and I'd have been a bloody paste on the shores of the Mediterranean. That being said, it was one of the most beautiful, breathtaking, and memorable hikes I've ever been on. My pictures do the scenery absolutely no justice.
This morning I finally woke up to sunshine! Perfect morning and early afternoon for hiking and exploring. I hiked from the most northern town (Monterosso) to the most southern (Riomaggiore). Then, I took a ferry back to Monterosso (I dropped my laundry off there this morning, and it's a 5-minute train ride from Vernazza). All was great - until the freak thunderstorm hit. Lightning, thunder, torrential downpour - I honestly think the heavens opened up and just let loose! I was stuck in the rain with no umbrella or coat. Fortunately, I didn't wear a white tee-shirt! I was a hit with the old timers in Monterosso, though. I got a standing ovation from the old men at one of the pubs as I walked by. Pretty funny!
Anyhow, I had dinner with two Aussies last night (a woman and her daughter). It was GREAT! We drank tons of vino, talked, and talked, and talked. I hope I see them again! This morning, I had breakfast with two other Seattlites! All the locals in Vernazza have been talking about the two other girls from Seattle and I finally met them! We're having dinner at this really great restaurant tonight!
After dinner, it'll probably be another night of drinking wine on the breakwater with the locals. It's amazing - no open container laws! It's generally cheaper to take your food to go rather than eat at a table, and Vernazza is the perfect place to grab some food and tasty beverage and sit on the breakwater! Can't wait!
The pesto here is amazing. I've had it for every meal. Tonight I've gotta branch out.
Anyhoo, enough of the rambling post. It's time for some wine and a little snacky-poo before dinner! Ahh...the easy life.
Ciao!
It was a bit of a scary thing getting here. I was totally off the grid - no reservations and not a whole lot of options, but it all worked out okay. I stayed in an amazing little apartment my first night here (rather than let it sit empty, the family took my 50 euros for the night). Now, I'm in a little camera - room for let. I have a double bed, an unusual but cool view, and my bathroom is like no other! There's no shower stall. I have to pull the shower curtain across the sink, turn on the shower, and scrub over the toilet...You'll have to see the pictures - it's hard to describe. The door to the bathroom is sealed up like a submarine! I love it! The owners are Antonio (a honest-to-god GIANT) and Ingrid (I think she's Swiss). They're fantastic. They've really gone out of their way to make their little camera homey and sweet.
I visited the other four villages today. Neh. I think Vernazza has spoiled me for life!
I've hiked the 7-mile trail that connects the 5 villages. Two of the sections are pretty tame - fairly flat and easy. The other two sections are SCARY! Huge elevation gains and losses, and the trails don't necessarily have guardrails. In too many places to name, there was sheer rock cliff on one side of the 6-inch dirt trail and a 500+ foot cliff straight to the jagged rocks below. One false move, and I'd have been a bloody paste on the shores of the Mediterranean. That being said, it was one of the most beautiful, breathtaking, and memorable hikes I've ever been on. My pictures do the scenery absolutely no justice.
This morning I finally woke up to sunshine! Perfect morning and early afternoon for hiking and exploring. I hiked from the most northern town (Monterosso) to the most southern (Riomaggiore). Then, I took a ferry back to Monterosso (I dropped my laundry off there this morning, and it's a 5-minute train ride from Vernazza). All was great - until the freak thunderstorm hit. Lightning, thunder, torrential downpour - I honestly think the heavens opened up and just let loose! I was stuck in the rain with no umbrella or coat. Fortunately, I didn't wear a white tee-shirt! I was a hit with the old timers in Monterosso, though. I got a standing ovation from the old men at one of the pubs as I walked by. Pretty funny!
Anyhow, I had dinner with two Aussies last night (a woman and her daughter). It was GREAT! We drank tons of vino, talked, and talked, and talked. I hope I see them again! This morning, I had breakfast with two other Seattlites! All the locals in Vernazza have been talking about the two other girls from Seattle and I finally met them! We're having dinner at this really great restaurant tonight!
After dinner, it'll probably be another night of drinking wine on the breakwater with the locals. It's amazing - no open container laws! It's generally cheaper to take your food to go rather than eat at a table, and Vernazza is the perfect place to grab some food and tasty beverage and sit on the breakwater! Can't wait!
The pesto here is amazing. I've had it for every meal. Tonight I've gotta branch out.
Anyhoo, enough of the rambling post. It's time for some wine and a little snacky-poo before dinner! Ahh...the easy life.
Ciao!
Friday, May 16, 2008
Ahh...Venice
I'm in Venice - finally! It's very beautiful here, looks just like pictures and movies. Venice is primarily a tourist town (it's far too expensive to live here and tourists often outnumber residents), so the merchants and waiters are kind of gruff - much different feel than Rome and Sorrento. My only real beef with Venice is the cost, though. It's 2-5 times more expensive here than the other places I've visited. But, I'm in Venice, so I can't really complain!
Anyhow, after dropping my stuff off at my cute little hotel, I wandered the streets of Venice. Absolutely breathtaking! So romantic, too. Bridges everywhere!
My hotel is in a former little palace. It's very grand with winding marble staircases and all kinds of Renaissance-type decorations. It's within a very short walk from St. Mark's Cathedral. All of the guidebooks warn you that your best chance of being robbed are inside St. Mark's...Weird. You'd think the pickpockets would be worried about being struck down by the wrath of God. Or some pissed off old Catholic lady!
Because Venice is sinking and the foundations are on pillars, most of the buildings and plazas roll. You can easily get tripped up in a church or other building if you're not paying attention to where you're going! Since I'm a single, I usually get seated along the edges of restaurants - which means I'm sitting on the edge of a curve teetering precariously on my chair! It's great for people watching.
I'm off to take a cheap cruise of the Grand Canal this afternoon. Instead of buses, Venice has vaporetto (boats that serve as buses). You can cruise the Grand Canal on the slow boat for about 6 euros (about 11 dollars). I may try to cross the water to another small island directly across from St. Mark's. The view from the bell tower is supposed to be absolutely amazing!
Later tonight, I'm going to go on a Venetian pub crawl. It's the easiest way to eat cheap here! You buy a drink at the bar, and you get little snacks (provided by the bar)! Hit enough little bars, and you're full! I ordered a 'typical Venetian' antipasti last night. Other than the sardines and the polenta, I couldn't identify one thing on my plate...I tried a bite of everything, but could only really stomach the polenta. Thank god for my second plate - gnocci with gorgonzola cream sauce...YUM!
Anyhow, tomorrow morning, I get on a looonnnnnggg train ride (5-7 hours) to the West Coast of Italy - Cinque Terre in the Genoa region. It'll be nice to be in small towns again after the big cities...
Ciao!
Anyhow, after dropping my stuff off at my cute little hotel, I wandered the streets of Venice. Absolutely breathtaking! So romantic, too. Bridges everywhere!
My hotel is in a former little palace. It's very grand with winding marble staircases and all kinds of Renaissance-type decorations. It's within a very short walk from St. Mark's Cathedral. All of the guidebooks warn you that your best chance of being robbed are inside St. Mark's...Weird. You'd think the pickpockets would be worried about being struck down by the wrath of God. Or some pissed off old Catholic lady!
Because Venice is sinking and the foundations are on pillars, most of the buildings and plazas roll. You can easily get tripped up in a church or other building if you're not paying attention to where you're going! Since I'm a single, I usually get seated along the edges of restaurants - which means I'm sitting on the edge of a curve teetering precariously on my chair! It's great for people watching.
I'm off to take a cheap cruise of the Grand Canal this afternoon. Instead of buses, Venice has vaporetto (boats that serve as buses). You can cruise the Grand Canal on the slow boat for about 6 euros (about 11 dollars). I may try to cross the water to another small island directly across from St. Mark's. The view from the bell tower is supposed to be absolutely amazing!
Later tonight, I'm going to go on a Venetian pub crawl. It's the easiest way to eat cheap here! You buy a drink at the bar, and you get little snacks (provided by the bar)! Hit enough little bars, and you're full! I ordered a 'typical Venetian' antipasti last night. Other than the sardines and the polenta, I couldn't identify one thing on my plate...I tried a bite of everything, but could only really stomach the polenta. Thank god for my second plate - gnocci with gorgonzola cream sauce...YUM!
Anyhow, tomorrow morning, I get on a looonnnnnggg train ride (5-7 hours) to the West Coast of Italy - Cinque Terre in the Genoa region. It'll be nice to be in small towns again after the big cities...
Ciao!
Wednesday, May 14, 2008
You don't see that every day...
Ahh...Siena. I was so tired when I arrived, I actually regretted coming to Siena. Il Campo, the Duomo, the cathedral, and San Domenico are lovely, but I was just too damn tired to appreciate them. And, on top of it all, my feet freaking HURT. The only time they don't hurt is after a long night's sleep. Once I'm up and moving, they hurt again...oh the perils of travel.
Anyhow, I got up this morning thinking that I would just take it easy. For my feet's sake and for my mental well-being. I wandered to Il Campo (about a block from my old, kind of grungy but utterly charming and typical Italian hotel) to sit on the square and have my croissant and cappucino. The square was blocked off - strange. Stranger - there were people doing something technical in the square. Once I found someone who could actually speak English, I found out that scenes from the new James Bond movie (Quantum of Solace) are being filmed here. They've hired a ton of locals to scream and shout and wave flags while Daniel Craig runs through the crowd. Apparently, the scene involves the twice-a-year death-defying Palio horse races (riders are frequently mortally wounded during the race, but only the horse has to cross the finish line to win - the riders are just for show). Palio only happens during June and August, and it's impossible to get a room anywhere near Siena during these times, but I get to see a little bit of it today, So what if it's just staged for the movie?
Sneaking around the perimeter of Il Campo, I actually saw Daniel Craig! He was being misted with water and had a ton of makeup on (he looked pretty beat up, and bloody). I was about 20 feet away when I finally got a picture. Security made me leave the square, but I got to keep the picture!
Anyhow, watching them shoot the Palio scene over and over and over was boring, so I wandered through Siena. At the cathedral, you can climb up, up, up to the roof through a claustrophobic spiral staircase. It's an amazing view of the Tuscan hillsides! The guardrail/brick wall is only about 2 feet high, though (with signs to not lean over the side - no shit!). It's a bit disorienting to be that high up without much of a barrier against a long drop.
Finally, I just booked my hotel for Venice. I'm skipping Florence this time (not enough time to really appreciate it, although I'm already regretting missing the Accademia...and David). I bought a phone card and with my broken Italian, I managed to reserve a room in Venice near (maybe on?) the Grand Canal. Yay me! Although tomorrow will be another travel day, I'm still pretty proud that I got up the bollocks to call a hotel directly and stumble my way through completely foreign territory! If nothing else, this trip has taught me that I can do just about anything I set my mind to.
Anyhow, I got up this morning thinking that I would just take it easy. For my feet's sake and for my mental well-being. I wandered to Il Campo (about a block from my old, kind of grungy but utterly charming and typical Italian hotel) to sit on the square and have my croissant and cappucino. The square was blocked off - strange. Stranger - there were people doing something technical in the square. Once I found someone who could actually speak English, I found out that scenes from the new James Bond movie (Quantum of Solace) are being filmed here. They've hired a ton of locals to scream and shout and wave flags while Daniel Craig runs through the crowd. Apparently, the scene involves the twice-a-year death-defying Palio horse races (riders are frequently mortally wounded during the race, but only the horse has to cross the finish line to win - the riders are just for show). Palio only happens during June and August, and it's impossible to get a room anywhere near Siena during these times, but I get to see a little bit of it today, So what if it's just staged for the movie?
Sneaking around the perimeter of Il Campo, I actually saw Daniel Craig! He was being misted with water and had a ton of makeup on (he looked pretty beat up, and bloody). I was about 20 feet away when I finally got a picture. Security made me leave the square, but I got to keep the picture!
Anyhow, watching them shoot the Palio scene over and over and over was boring, so I wandered through Siena. At the cathedral, you can climb up, up, up to the roof through a claustrophobic spiral staircase. It's an amazing view of the Tuscan hillsides! The guardrail/brick wall is only about 2 feet high, though (with signs to not lean over the side - no shit!). It's a bit disorienting to be that high up without much of a barrier against a long drop.
Finally, I just booked my hotel for Venice. I'm skipping Florence this time (not enough time to really appreciate it, although I'm already regretting missing the Accademia...and David). I bought a phone card and with my broken Italian, I managed to reserve a room in Venice near (maybe on?) the Grand Canal. Yay me! Although tomorrow will be another travel day, I'm still pretty proud that I got up the bollocks to call a hotel directly and stumble my way through completely foreign territory! If nothing else, this trip has taught me that I can do just about anything I set my mind to.
Travel days
Yesterday, I traveled from Sorrento to Siena. It took all day - even though I took a rapide train. I hate travel days. These are the only days when I just want to go home. It's really exhausting figuring out the train schedules and the connections and freaking train stations! They're kind of chaotic and full of people who either don't know where they're going and just wandering aimlessly looking for someone who'll help them or they're trying to scam those aimless wanderers. Or they're far too busy to help. It's so intimidating and tiring. I hate travel days.
My train from Sorrento had a transfer in Naples. I really don't like Naples. Well, I guess I really don't like the train station in Naples. I lost my ticket from Sorrento and got in trouble with the police - fortunately I found it before I had to pay the fine (it was in my pocket - WTF? - I never put stuff in my pockets). Then, my train was delayed for an hour. Meanwhile, I'm stuck in the station trying to keep people from stealing my bag. Grr...
Once I got to Florence, though, everything seemed okay. I had to transfer to a bus to get to Siena, but no biggie - except nobody could tell me where the buses were. I finally found my bus (the driver was more interested in smoking and talking on his cell phone than answering my question) and ended up being the only passenger for the hour-long bus ride to Siena. Haha - I had a personal chauffeur!
Finally got to Siena, found my hotel, and wandered through the city center. Despite the rain and cold temperature, I found Siena beautiful. Exhausted by the travel, I crashed out after a slice of delicious pizza and a bottle of vino (yes, a bottle - what're you gonna do about it?).
My train from Sorrento had a transfer in Naples. I really don't like Naples. Well, I guess I really don't like the train station in Naples. I lost my ticket from Sorrento and got in trouble with the police - fortunately I found it before I had to pay the fine (it was in my pocket - WTF? - I never put stuff in my pockets). Then, my train was delayed for an hour. Meanwhile, I'm stuck in the station trying to keep people from stealing my bag. Grr...
Once I got to Florence, though, everything seemed okay. I had to transfer to a bus to get to Siena, but no biggie - except nobody could tell me where the buses were. I finally found my bus (the driver was more interested in smoking and talking on his cell phone than answering my question) and ended up being the only passenger for the hour-long bus ride to Siena. Haha - I had a personal chauffeur!
Finally got to Siena, found my hotel, and wandered through the city center. Despite the rain and cold temperature, I found Siena beautiful. Exhausted by the travel, I crashed out after a slice of delicious pizza and a bottle of vino (yes, a bottle - what're you gonna do about it?).
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
