Monday, May 19, 2008

Cinque Terre

After leaving Venice, I headed across Italy to the west coast - the fabled Cinque Terre. My (and most of the other tourists in Italy) homeboy Rick Steves recommended Vernazza as a great place to crash. He wasn't kidding! Vernazza is a place that I could just up and move to. The people - including the tourists! - are laid back, relaxed, and really appreciate the simple life. The little town is one of the most beautiful spots in the world. I totally made the right decision to save this gem for last.

It was a bit of a scary thing getting here. I was totally off the grid - no reservations and not a whole lot of options, but it all worked out okay. I stayed in an amazing little apartment my first night here (rather than let it sit empty, the family took my 50 euros for the night). Now, I'm in a little camera - room for let. I have a double bed, an unusual but cool view, and my bathroom is like no other! There's no shower stall. I have to pull the shower curtain across the sink, turn on the shower, and scrub over the toilet...You'll have to see the pictures - it's hard to describe. The door to the bathroom is sealed up like a submarine! I love it! The owners are Antonio (a honest-to-god GIANT) and Ingrid (I think she's Swiss). They're fantastic. They've really gone out of their way to make their little camera homey and sweet.

I visited the other four villages today. Neh. I think Vernazza has spoiled me for life!

I've hiked the 7-mile trail that connects the 5 villages. Two of the sections are pretty tame - fairly flat and easy. The other two sections are SCARY! Huge elevation gains and losses, and the trails don't necessarily have guardrails. In too many places to name, there was sheer rock cliff on one side of the 6-inch dirt trail and a 500+ foot cliff straight to the jagged rocks below. One false move, and I'd have been a bloody paste on the shores of the Mediterranean. That being said, it was one of the most beautiful, breathtaking, and memorable hikes I've ever been on. My pictures do the scenery absolutely no justice.

This morning I finally woke up to sunshine! Perfect morning and early afternoon for hiking and exploring. I hiked from the most northern town (Monterosso) to the most southern (Riomaggiore). Then, I took a ferry back to Monterosso (I dropped my laundry off there this morning, and it's a 5-minute train ride from Vernazza). All was great - until the freak thunderstorm hit. Lightning, thunder, torrential downpour - I honestly think the heavens opened up and just let loose! I was stuck in the rain with no umbrella or coat. Fortunately, I didn't wear a white tee-shirt! I was a hit with the old timers in Monterosso, though. I got a standing ovation from the old men at one of the pubs as I walked by. Pretty funny!

Anyhow, I had dinner with two Aussies last night (a woman and her daughter). It was GREAT! We drank tons of vino, talked, and talked, and talked. I hope I see them again! This morning, I had breakfast with two other Seattlites! All the locals in Vernazza have been talking about the two other girls from Seattle and I finally met them! We're having dinner at this really great restaurant tonight!

After dinner, it'll probably be another night of drinking wine on the breakwater with the locals. It's amazing - no open container laws! It's generally cheaper to take your food to go rather than eat at a table, and Vernazza is the perfect place to grab some food and tasty beverage and sit on the breakwater! Can't wait!

The pesto here is amazing. I've had it for every meal. Tonight I've gotta branch out.

Anyhoo, enough of the rambling post. It's time for some wine and a little snacky-poo before dinner! Ahh...the easy life.

Ciao!

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